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Mr. Wilson's extraordinary pairing

Science grad and sommelier brings biology to oenology

- April 20, 2012

Dal Biology graduate, Jonathan Wilson now works as a professional sommelier. (Photo Daniel Abriel)
Dal Biology graduate, Jonathan Wilson now works as a professional sommelier. (Photo Daniel Abriel)

Most sommeliers can tell you the tasting notes in a glass of chilled Pinot Grigio or a plummy-red Bordeaux. But how many can also provide effortless technical detail about the wine-making process or a wineā€™s terroir?

For Jonathan Wilson (BScā€™05), trained sommelier and owner of Labeled Wine Consulting, in Sydney, Nova Scotia, those details are second nature. He gives partial credit for that knowledge to his Biology degree.

ā€œHaving a little science has given me an edge,ā€ he says. ā€œIf you already know about fermentation and tannins from organic chemistry class, itā€™s easier.ā€

His ā€˜a-haā€™ moment

As a biology student, Mr. Wilson didnā€™t plan on becoming a wine connoisseur. Originally, he wanted to become a doctor, but his oenophilia began as he put himself through school, tending bar at the Grawood. Part of his job involved working high-end functions around campus. Before each event, bartenders sampled the wines they served.

ā€œIt blew me away,ā€ he remembers, shaking his head. ā€œThat was my ā€˜a-haā€™ moment, when I thought, ā€˜OK, I really like this, I want to make it a hobby.ā€™ So I started reading about wine on the sideā€”and I found out how much bloody science goes into it,ā€ he laughs.

Later, while working at a hotel as a food and beverage manager, he completed two years of professional training at the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers. The rest, as they say, is history.

Nova Scotiaā€™s singular terroir

Mr. Wilson loves Nova Scotia wines. ā€œThe sparkling wines are world class,ā€ Mr. Wilson says, ā€œThe growers care about making it and the climate is perfect.ā€

The climate is responsible for a ā€œvery distinctā€ taste. ā€œNova Scotia wines really show the terroir,ā€ he says. ā€œKind of like Nova Scotiansā€”as soon as they meet you, theyā€™ll tell you where theyā€™re from: ā€˜Iā€™m from Glace Bay, take it or leave it,ā€™ā€ he laughs.

Mr. Wilson has toured all the provinceā€™s wineries, citing Benjamin Bridge, Blomidon, Gaspereau, and Lā€™Acadie wineries amongst the provinceā€™s best.

Learning the business side

Biology is just one of the tricks up Mr. Wilsonā€™s sleeveā€”he also did a Business minor as part of his degree.

ā€œKnowing how to do an income statement and balance sheet is useful, now that Iā€™m running my own business. Iā€™m glad I did it,ā€ he says.

In an average week, Mr. Wilson works a sales agent in Cape Breton for the Bedford-based Harvest Wines and Spirits and gives his own private tastings, professional consultations and advice to restaurants on wine lists.

ā€œThatā€™s the passionate side for me,ā€ he says, ā€œgetting together with people and educating them on wine. And the store wants that message out thereā€”that wine is for everyone, not just elitists."

Life-long learning

Even Mr. Wilson, who clearly knows his stuff, is aware of the limits of his expertise. The field changes so quickly, itā€™s nearly impossible to keep up.

ā€œI know maybe 5 percent of what there is to know and itā€™s changing every day. But knowing Iā€™ll never know everything draws me in.ā€

The scientist in him is more than up to the challenge, but itā€™s more than a quest for knowledgeā€“itā€™ his lifeā€™ passion.

ā€œIā€™ve found a way for my passion to be my job,ā€ he says. ā€œIā€™m grateful to be able to do what I love. I get up in the morning and my passion is what Iā€™m going out to do: helping people have a better dinner by pairing an appropriate wine or helping local hotels make more money by offering a different wine list.ā€

ā€œI find wine fascinating and I want to know more. That curiosity compelled me to do something,ā€ he says. ā€œAnd now I want to devote my life to it.ā€